The best microbrand watches are the ones where a small independent brand spent its budget on the movement, the crystal and the case finishing instead of on advertising. This guide is for buyers who want a watch they will not see on every other wrist, and who care that it is built on a movement a watchmaker can service. The price band runs from $365 to $1,195. Most of the watches below are one unit in stock at One Good Watch, so when one sells it is gone and the list changes.
What to look for
A microbrand is a small brand, usually designed in one country and sold direct, that builds its watches around off-the-shelf movements from Miyota, Seiko or Sellita. That is a good thing. It means the movement inside a $400 microbrand watch is the same one inside watches that cost far more, and parts are easy to get. Check the movement name in the listing. Check that the crystal is sapphire, ideally with an anti-reflective coating. Check for a stated water resistance rating and a 316L stainless steel case. An exhibition caseback is common and a nice bonus.
What to be wary of: a $400 watch with mineral glass, no movement named, or no water resistance stated. Those are corners cut, and a microbrand that cuts them has not spent your money where it counts.
Our picks
Valusis Volt White Automatic Watch, Miyota 8215
A cloud white sunray dial in a 40mm octagonal steel case, with the Miyota 8215 visible through an exhibition caseback. Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The octagonal case gives it more presence than a 40mm usually earns. One available. $365.
Valusis Lysium Black Automatic Watch, Miyota 8215
The dressier Valusis. A black sunray dial in a 40mm 316L steel case, Miyota 8215 automatic with a 42 hour reserve, sapphire crystal with AR coating, and a bracelet with polished center links against brushed outer links. It arrives in a wooden case with a travel bag, which makes it the gift pick here. One unit in stock. $365.
Maker's Watch Knot Ivory Titanium Solar Chronograph, 40mm
The odd one out, and the lightest watch on the list. A titanium solar chronograph with an ivory dial under sapphire, a 40mm case at 11mm thick, and a head that weighs 32.5g without a strap. The Epson VR43 solar quartz movement runs on light, so there is no battery appointment. Rated to 100m and it ships with two 18mm straps, oak leather and Milanese mesh. $420.
AV86 1956 Marine Green-Dial Automatic Watch, Miyota 8215
A vintage-inspired diver from a Danish design house. Textured green sandwich dial with cut-outs at 12 and 6, a ceramic bezel insert, double-domed sapphire with AR coating, and a Miyota 8215 with hacking seconds. Manufacturer-rated to 200m. The case is individually numbered. One unit in stock. $509.
MD Watches Supernatural Caturix Automatic Watch, Mesh Bracelet
A true regulator, which is rare at any price. Hours sit off-center and the long minute hand takes the middle of the frosted grey dial. 40mm 316L steel case, 12mm thick, 46mm lug to lug, with double-curved sapphire on the front and a second sapphire in the exhibition caseback. Miyota 82S7 automatic with hand-winding and a 42 hour reserve, on a polished Milanese mesh bracelet. One available. $749.
Echo Neutra 1956 3H Black Automatic Watch, Sellita SW200-1
Italian design, Swiss movement, and the most serious watch on the list. A Sellita SW200-1 in elaboré grade with 26 jewels and 41 hours of reserve, under an ultra-domed box sapphire with double internal AR coating. Fixed ceramic bezel with Super-LumiNova indices, screw-down crown, rated to 100m. One available. $1,195.
How to choose between them
If this is your first microbrand, start with either Valusis. Both give you the Miyota 8215, sapphire with AR coating and an exhibition caseback at $365, and the only real decision is white octagonal case or black round one. The Maker's Watch Knot is for someone who wants a chronograph they can forget about, since solar quartz needs neither winding nor a battery change. The AV86 is the diver, and the only pick here rated to 200m. The MD Watches regulator is for a collector who already owns the basics and wants a dial layout nobody else at the office has. The Echo Neutra is the one to buy if you want Swiss and serviceable and are willing to pay for it once.